Montaggio losi 3.0 by casey peck

[NIOREVO]

Ho chiesto al pilota TLR Casey Peck di poter riportare il reportage del montaggio della 3.0 che ha postato su RcTech sul nostro forum, ha acconsentito!

Grazie Casey! TNKS!

[NIOREVO]

Hello TLR fans. I will be posting my pro build up of the 3.0 and will be focusing on the tips that I have come up with over the years as well as keying in on the cool hop up parts that come standard with the TLR 3.0

Some of the more self explanitory build stuff will be breezed over but this should help you guys with a bullet proof 3.0 nitro buggy build up.

Hope you enjoy

I will start with a clean work surface and some of my favorite hand tools

1. 3/32 ball end
2. 5/64 allen driver
3. 1/16 allen driver
4. .050 allen driver
5. 3/32 and 5/64 speed tip for drill
6. Small battery drill
7. 1/4" nut driver
8. 3/16" nut driver (not shown)
9. Exacto knife (not shown)
10. TLR camber wrench
11. Black Sharpie
12. Red and Blue loctite
13. Blue rags
14. Some kind of nitro spray / motor spray
15. Digital callipers
16. Smooth jaw needle nose (not pictured)
17. And finnaly some sharp scissors. I prefer to cut kit bags open instead of ripping and pulling. This way no small parts get lost or missed

[NIOREVO]

First up is the steering link build up. Notice the shiney side of the rod end on the top one. (The lower one is displaying the matte finish and is the wrong side to pop from) This is the side you will want to pop the ball into. it will yeild the best / smoothest swivel action.



I use a a flat tooth set of needle nose to pop all of the ball in to the rod ends. This flat jaw style will not marr the aluminum or steel ball. Do this to both rod ends



Now with your 5/64 allen screw the threaded link into the rod end until it just starts to bottom out.



For the other side I will start the end in by hand and then insert the 5/64 allen into the ball to thread the rod on the rest of the way. (extreme force on the end with your fingers will eventually wear you out so I like to do things the easiet way )

[NIOREVO]

now on to the steering rack and posts.

Install both steering posts. I do not use loctite on these since I take the whole front clip off for maintenance. Since its off every week or so and retightened it would be a pain to deal with loctite. It's up to you on this one but I have never had one come loose in long mains so I continue to do it this way.



Then the bearing go into the left side bellcrank and on to the saver assembly.



This very straight forward except for the loctite on the aluminum saver tube. I prefer a big dab of red loctite and twist it around to spread it on my finger. This ensures a good coverage in the threads and not too much to get everywhere.





I chose to build mine with an aluminum upper saver peice but it will require a little grinding to clear the new larger steering rack with the big bearings. The stock plastic one shown here has a relief in the side to clear the the rack



For proper saver tention (my preference) is to screw the assembly together until the nut is flush with the tube and make a mark with a black sharpie. I will then tighten it a full turn. ( to be a little easier on your servo you can go with a half turn)

[NIOREVO]

now for the cool new steering rack. you will want to press the bearing in (flange side down) with those same needle nose you then use the new rack screw to hold the rack bearing down. If you accidently install the bearing flange up it will bind up when you tighten the rack all the way down.







saver side installed notice the gringing on the aluminum top peice to clear the new bearing. NOTE a new aluminum top will be adjusted so as not to require any modifing but I used what I had. Again if you use the stock plastic which is plenty stong you will not have to do any modifying.



now to install the steering link. Anytime I need to get loctite into a threaded surface I prefer to dab a small amount on the tip of a small allen (.050 here) to control how much actually gets put on and where. You do not want a excess amount of loctite to spill out when you thread the parts together. This will freeze up rotating parts and is just messy.





I then install the steering link with the button head screw and install a mini lock nut on the bottom side. Note this may have been easier done before you install the completed rack on to the steering posts.

[NIOREVO]

Now install the tank posts and front chassis brace. I use a 1/16 alle to push the lock nuts in to bottom the brace and those same needle nose on the other two.





Next is the plastic top plate that holds the bellcranks in place


This one is up to you but I prefer the IFMAR fuel 90 degree fitting on my tanks. To do this you will want to push or pull the internal fuel line to sit just against the back wall of the tank. This will make sure all fuel is drawn out of the lowest portion of the tank.



then leave roughly 1/4" of fuel line from the outside of tank and cut the excess off.



Now push the fitting long end first into the tank line. (A little motor spray in the tube or on the fitting will make this step easier)



I like to push the tank down onto the mounts and then hold the chassis on its side and screw the mounting screws (with washers) sideways to not drop the screw.



Bag A completed

[NIOREVO]

Here's a look at the goodies included in the kit and for the next step. New coated hinge pins that seem to be a spring steel type of metal as well as the ti king pins. I always ran the adjustable captured front hingepin braces so its nice that they are now included in the kit.



The new 15 deg plastic non inclined caster blocks and spindles are redisigned to maximize steering throw with more clearance for the wheel



On to the driveshafts these go together the same as all the others just pay attention to the legnth of axle pin. Don't get the diff pins confused for the axle pins. The axle pin will be just long enough to fit flush in the axle.

After installing the bearings into the spindle and the completed axle / driveshaft into the bearings add the wheel hex's. Then the large pin and the set screw. I like to spray motor spray on a rag and thread the set screw to remove any shipping oil. This will make the locktite stick better. Notice the junk that came off after on the rag. Do this to all hardware that needs loctite.





**A reminder to dab the loctite on to the set screw and twist it onto your finger to spread it evenly and get rid of excess

Now use your wheel wrench to hold the hex and install the set screw



finish the spindle / caster block assembly with the new kingpins. Don't forget to install the small set screws that hold the pins in

[NIOREVO]

On to the diff's. Cut an angle on the included TLR black grease tube. Twist the included light weight outdrive and add the black greese to the greese grove. I then twist it against my finger to remove any excess.

Now install the flanged diff bearing onto the diff case and the prepared outdrive. Once inserted add the small red o-ring to the outdrive shaft.

I like to use a 1/4" nut driver to drive the o-ring into the slot.

Now install the outdrive pin. I use an old pair of surgical hemostat's

Then drop the flat spider gear on to the pin / outdrive. Now add the small gears to the diff pins and add some diff oil to help hold them together.

This way you can pick the whole thing up without the gears falling off. (when they are clean and shiney they do not always want to stay together)

Now add the diff fluid since this is front one it is 5K

Here is the trick that I picked up from Yannik when he ran for us.
Add the flat spider gear to the assembly and the excess diff oil will rise to the top. You can then run a flat edge across the diff case top to remove the excess. This will make sure the diff is perfectly filled every time.



Now the gasket and ring gear. Use the same steps to installing the bearing and outdrive to the ring gear. Don't forget the greese on the ring gear.



Now its just 4 diff case screws and its complete.

[NIOREVO]

On to the gearbox / pinion gear install.

Since the 3.0 uses center dog bones the gearbox gets an outdrive instead of the standard cvd driveshaft. This builds just like the old stuff. Install the bearings indo the gearbox and insert the pinion gear. Hold the pinion gear in with presure as you add the out drive. Don't forget to prep the set screw just like we did in the previous steps(with the motorspray / rag and red loctite)

Next insert the completed front diff into the gearbox. I add three small dabs of black greese to the ring gear.

Notice the buttonhead 540 screw on the bottom of the gearbox. The kit comes with caphead 540 screws but I prefer to switch these out with the buttonhead so the same size wrench is used for all of the screws.

[Bestia]

Grandissimo Nio, montare la 3.0 sarà entusiasmante ma farlo attraverso Peck è roba di un altro pianeta!!! Appena arriva subito al lavoro!!!